When I was 7 years old, I took a trip from Lima into the Andes with my aunts and uncles, a long drive that carried me from the bustle of the capital into the thin, crystalline air of the mountains. Even now, decades later, I can still feel the moment when the road opened into silence and altitude. It was my first time above 12,000 feet. My first time seeing the Andean light bend across the landscape. My first time watching alpacas grazing in their natural habitat, soft and unhurried, utterly at ease in a world that felt ancient long before I arrived.
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