Central Asia is a land of history-making transformations and complex cultural heritage. It has experienced numerous rulers, empires and borders, most recently under Soviet rule. Yet, despite dramatic changes, the people of Central Asia — Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan — have preserved and continue to cherish their ancient cultural roots and craft traditions, even when doing so has been perilous. In the post-Soviet era, the world has witnessed their cultures flourish with the revival of traditional crafts and the emergence of modern interpretations of regional identity.
It was this vibrant tapestry of culture and artistry that I unexpectedly found myself immersed in through a series of projects with the Smithsonian Center for Folklife and Cultural Heritage (the Center). Beginning in Kazakhstan in 2021, we partnered with international collaborators to explore local craft studios, develop virtual programs connecting artisans from Central Asia and the U.S., and ultimately conduct an extensive study of 50 artists across the five Central Asian countries.
This journey introduced me to individuals, locations and practices I had never imagined encountering.
This research culminated in a beautiful resource showcasing the exquisite work of these 50 artists: Women Artisans of Central Asia: A Lookbook Journey, a bilingual print and free digital publication available in English and Russian.
This lookbook and accompanying workshop series were supported by the United States Agency for International Development, the Smithsonian, and the U.S. Department of Commerce’s Commercial Law Development Program. In collaboration with Smithsonian staff, including co-lead and project manager Ashkhen Khudaverdyan, regional partners, and the Union of Artisans Kazakhstan, the women welcomed our team into their studios and lives, sharing their artistic processes and passion for their crafts with the world.
Throughout our journey to create the lookbook, we observed that the women’s creations across the region are genuine expressions of their creative and cultural lives. Each studio brims with color, texture and a profound appreciation for the history inherent in every step of creating beauty. The lookbook itself is a stunning work. Its pages reveal intricate, beautiful pieces and the faces behind them, while offering insights into the craft history of each country.
From the outset, we worked closely with Aizhan Bekkulova and Assel Shalakhmetova, from the Union of Artisans Kazakhstan. Reflecting on the project, Aizhan shared, “Many of these crafts continue to thrive through generations, with knowledge often passing from mother or grandmother to daughter. Each craft possesses its own symbolism, functional features, techniques, and specialties. We aimed to convey as much detail as possible about each woman, as every participant brought a unique experience and approach to their craft.”
I wish I could personally guide every reader through Central Asia, as there is so much to learn and discover. Until then, I invite you to meet the talented women in our lookbook who are carrying their crafts into the future, hoping they will inspire you as profoundly as they have inspired me.
Turkmenistan
TAJIGUL GURBANOVA (left) is a designer engaged in the preservation and development of Turkmen crafts.
Photos courtesy of Murat Ataev and the TMProduction team
Spending an afternoon marvelously transforming sheep wool into something needed, beautiful and intricate is just another day in the life of the people who work at Design Plus. The creative group is an association of artisans from around Turkmenistan that focuses on stewarding the country’s traditional craft and developing new methods of art and heritage.
Tajigul Gurbanova is the businesswoman turned artist who guides this community. As a leader who gives advice on creative techniques and business development, her passion for the arts of Turkmenistan radiates through her own creative work. I met Tajigul in 2023 in Frankfurt, Germany, when she was participating in Creativeworld at Messe Frankfurt.
Her enthusiasm for Turkmen craft came through as we talked through an interpreter and I learned that she is a prolific painter who explores the colors, motifs and symbols of traditional Turkmen ornamentation on her can-vases. I was fortunate to see her work in person and see how she captures every intricate detail from specific craft practices and patterns, bringing to life traditional motifs through acrylic paint.
Kazakhstan
As a successful entrepreneur in Kazakhstan, GULMIRA UALIKHAN creates a range of products for the home and recently launched her clothing collection.
Photos courtesy of Alexey Malchenko
Based in Almaty, artist Gulmira Ualikhan believes in the mystical power of symbols and ornaments, capable of altering the course of thoughts and a woman’s karma. Her inspiration stems from a spiritual quest deeply tied to her art. In an interview we had with Gulmira, she shared, “When a person does her job with love for a long time, infusing it with energy and intuition, art is born.”
I first met Gulmira when she participated in our Storytelling through Textiles virtual workshop in 2021. As a kurak quilt artist, I learned how she incorporates intricate patterns and vibrant colors, meticulously layering and sewing spiritual symbols into her quilts. Seeing her quilts gives you an insight into the depth of meaning behind symbols in Kazakh culture.
One of her favorite elements, the “Tree of Life” Kazakh ornament, represents family continuity, health and well-being. She has developed a block based on this motif, which she incorporates into each of her commissioned pieces.
As she creates each quilt, she takes great care to imbue the piece with symbols and meanings specific to the individual who will own it. She believes there is “a book’s worth of stories in each piece” as she thoughtfully selects motifs and patterns that resonate with the patron’s life, hopes, and spiritual journey. Through her masterful layering of fabric and stitching, Gulmira weaves profound personal significance into every quilted creation. The finished works are not just artistic expressions, but talismans imbued with protective energies meant to empower the recipient.
The two craftswomen mentioned offer just a glimpse of the 50 talented artists featured in our lookbook. This project stems from a dedicated network of artisans and cultural leaders who generously shared their expertise and passion for living heritage.
As creatives, we often prefer studio solitude to bring our artistic visions to life. However, this project demonstrated the immense value of cross-border collaboration. Our team worked tirelessly behind the scenes, connecting global resources, donors and partners with artisans to ensure their work took center stage in the lookbook and accompanying program.
This publication merely hints at the vast richness of Central Asian crafts, serving as a gateway to an immense world awaiting exploration. With just two pages per artist, one can scarcely imagine the treasures hidden in their studios. Many featured artisans drive the development of their region’s cultural arts, establishing creative hubs within their communities. They share profound personal bonds with their crafts, acting as researchers and visionaries who nurture these living cultural traditions.
Kirby Ewald of the Center’s Cultural Vitality Program contributed to this story.
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Women Artisans of Central Asia: A Lookbook Journey is a collaboration between USAID, the Smithsonian, and the U.S. Department of Commerce’s Commercial Law Development Program. Click here to view the lookbook.
